Mon, 2012/03/05 – 6:45pm — BuffMother
Hey!! I’m back from my ski trip to Keystone…it was an amazing time! I skied 2 days, fell approximately 30 times and have only 1 bad bruise to show for it!! LOL!! It was a great break from real life and now I am trying my hardest to “RE-ENTER” life at full speed— TOUGH to do!!
Anyhow, I came home a sick little girl and the mess that occurs when Daddy babysits for 4 days :love: Layla stayed home today and I spent the day catching up on work, cleaning, cooking, shopping, laundry and got in a good chest workout with my boy.
Time to call it a night…but TOMORROW, I start the clean eats challege with Ya’ll! Whohoo!!
Cold hard truth!
Wed, 2012/03/07 – 11:46am — BuffMother
The cold hard truth hit me last night regarding my diet…I’ve been a super slacker and I am a carb addict (have been for ages…but I’m in a relapse!). I ended up eating way to much dairy and gluten for my poor tummy to handle yesterday and ended up with a tummy ache all night and part of this morning. The distance between what I KNOW works for me in my diet and the ACTUALLY DOING IT is way to far right now!! The cold hard truth is that I need to put much more effort into my food choices.
In order to break my current carb addiction I am going very low carb for the next couple of weeks– it’s going to correlate perfectly with my buffing phase and hopefully catapult me towards a successful training period for the Warrior Dash. There’s just about 58 days of training left before the event!!
My plan to run yesterday never happened…my DD was still sick, so I spent the afternoon at the DR’s office with her. She’s doing better today– NO FEVER FINALLY, so she’ll make it to school tomorrow, YAY~!! Today’s cycle day 3 for me, I have more energy than the past 2– I have slept and insane amount the past 3 days! I guess my body likes to make up for the BAD SLEEP it gets during the last week of each cycle….
My plan for today will be to get to the gym EARLY so I can tan and run on the treddy before my son arrives for our lifting session. We have legs on tap! It should be a GREAT workout!! Here’s the tenative line up: Leg Press, Knee ups on bench, Walking lunges, High Knees, Bulgarians, Laying side leg raises, Smith Lunges, Butt Squats, lower back/booty extensions.
Low, Low Carb will be tough, but I need to do it to “reset” my body and mind!!
Time to be HONEST and face the reality of my own weakness!
I can do it!!
My Blueberry research~
Thu, 2012/03/08 – 1:55pm — BuffMother
I am planning on growing some blueberries– actually A LOT of blueberries!! So…I’m doing research about it today– I swipped this info from various sites and am keeping it here in my blog for safe keeping. Any imput is welcome!!
- Peat moss
- Measuring cup
- Garden pruners
- Bird netting
- Select blueberry plants that are optimal for your USDA Hardiness Zone. Purchase two different varieties to ensure good pollination and fruit production.
Choose a sunny site to plant your blueberries, then test the soil pH with a test kit purchased from a garden center. Blueberry plants prefer acidic soil with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0. Mix in manure, shredded leaf compost and grass clippings to adjust the soil. Let the garden bed sit for two weeks, test again, and if necessary, mix in more organic material.
Dig a hole 18 inches deep and 18 inches wide for each blueberry plant. Space the holes at least one foot apart but not more than three feet from each other. Fill 12 inches of each hole back up with 2-inch layers of peat moss and dirt.
Soak the blueberry pots with water to loosen the soil. Tug each plant gently out of its pot and separate the roots with your fingers. Set the plant into the hole and spread the roots out. Fill the hole with soil, tamp it down with your foot and top off with additional soil5
Water blueberry plants immediately after they are set in the ground. Continue to water the plants two times a week for the next month. Then water weekly, or more frequently in hot weather, until winter. Run an open hose at each plant’s base for two to three minutes each time you water.
Fertilize blueberry plants once a month from spring to fall with azalea and rhododendron fertilizer. Sprinkle a one-quarter cup of the fertilizer in a circle six inches from the base of each plant just before watering.
Apply a two to three inch layer of compost around the blueberry plants in early spring. Add a second layer of compost when the plants begin to bloom.
Prune the blueberry plants in the fall after all the berries have been harvested. Cut away any dead wood, branches that do not have shiny bark and small twigs with garden pruners.
A newly planted blueberry bush will begin producing the second or third season after it’s planted. During the first blossom year, remove all blossoms. This helps root development and strengthens plants.
Pests and Problems:
Birds love blueberries! Consider draping blueberries in bird netting to deter them. Or build a walk-in blueberry cage (a light frame covered in bird netting), because birds sometimes fly under netting draped on top of plants.
In winter, rabbits and rodents may nibble on blueberry branches. Consider a chicken wire fence to protect tender bushes.
Blueberries need one inch of water per week or more. Use caution with tap water, as it can raise the pH of the soil or damage blueberries with minerals. Mulch made of wood chips, sawdust, or shredded bark will help conserve moisture and keep soil pH low.
Fertilize in spring and again in late summer.
Prune bushes in the winter. Remove any dead or diseased branches. Slightly thin bushy plants. Trim height, but don’t cut away more than half an inch of the newest growth.
Peak blueberry “season” is three weeks in July, but blueberry bushes will bear fruit until the frost. You know they’re ready when the berries are easily picked. When ripe, they have a grayish cast on a very blue color. A berry with a hint of red is not yet ripe. Cup a cluster of berries and rub gently with your fingers to pick ripe berries quickly.
Storage and Preservation:
Don’t wash blueberries until just before using. Chill them as soon as possible after picking. Freeze berries on a cookie sheet without washing, then move into freezer bags or containers. Rinse in cold water immediately before using.
Blueberries have very specific soil requirements. Plants grow best in well-drained, light sandy loam soils that are high in organic matter with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Peat and muck soils also are suitable. The soil water table should be at least 14 inches below the soil surface, or roots will suffocate.
If your garden has only coarse sandy or gravelly soils, pay more careful attention to watering and fertilizing. However, you can modify many soils that are unsuitable initially to make them suitable for blueberry production.
Selecting a cultivar
In most places, the blueberry fruiting season extends from early July to mid-September, depending on which cultivar you grow. The fruit on each cultivar ripens over a 2- to 5-week period.
Although highbush blueberry cultivars generally are self-fertile, cross-pollination produces larger berries. Also, if you plant two or more cultivars that ripen at different times, you’ll lengthen the harvest season.
Some cultivars grown(in order of ripening): ‘Earliblue,’ ‘Bluetta,’ ‘Duke,’ ‘Spartan,’ ‘Patriot,’ ‘Collins,’ ‘Bluejay,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Ivanhoe,’ ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Pemberton,’ ‘Jersey,’ ‘Coville,’ ‘Dixi,’ ‘Lateblue,’ and ‘Elliott.’
Which cultivars should you choose?
Choosing two cultivars that flower at the same time allows for cross-pollination and larger berries. Choosing various cultivars that ripen at different times allows you to pick fruit for a longer period. Choose cultivars with favorable fruit characteristics and plant growth habit.
Establishing your planting
Preparing the soil
You must prepare soils that are not naturally suitable for blueberry plant growth before planting. If you plan on growing several plants together, you’ll obtain more satisfactory results if you prepare an entire bed, rather than digging holes for individual plants and preparing soil to fill these holes.
It’s better to group plants together in a bed or row than to scatter individual plants around your home or garden. Blueberry plants are long-lived, so considerable time and expense in preparing the soil can be justified.
A well-drained, acid soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 is considered ideal for good growth. Incorporate organic matter, such as well-decomposed (rotted) sawdust, bark dust, or leaves, to improve soil aeration and drainage. Test soil pH a year before planting.
For most soils the pH must be lowered (made more acidic). However, if the pH of your soil is below 4.0, incorporate finely ground dolomitic limestone, following the rates recommended on the soil test report.
If the pH is above 5.5, acidify the soil by one of the following methods:
Mix 4 to 6 inches of peat moss into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. In addition to acidifying the soil, peat increases the organic matter content. Mix sawdust (do not use cedar) into the soil the fall before planting as outlined above for peat. Sawdust is not as effective as peat for lowering soil pH, but it’s effective at increasing soil organic matter. You also can use wood shavings (no cedar), alfalfa or grass hay, pine needles, leaves, and manures; however, these materials must compost (rot) before they become very beneficial. Composting robs soil of nitrogen. Therefore, as a general rule add 1 lb ammonium sulfate per 100 ft2 per inch depth of sawdust. Apply elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate the year before you plant and thoroughly mix into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. The amount of sulfur required to lower pH to the desired range differs for each soil type, so you must determine the amount required by trial. As a guide, it requires 1 to 2 lb sulfur or 6 to 12 lb aluminum sulfate per 100 ft2 to lower the pH one unit (say, from 6 to 5). Use the higher rate on heavier loam soils high in organic matter and the lower rate on light sandy soils low in organic content.
It takes several months for sulfur to lower the pH. Check the pH once or twice during the first growing season to determine if more sulfur is required.
If the pH is slightly above 5.5, continued use of ammonium sulfate fertilizer will lower the pH gradually.
If the pH of an organic soil is higher than 6.5, it’s usually not practical to acidify it.
Although blueberries require readily available moisture, they will not tolerate poor drainage. Ideal soils are well-drained with a water table 14 to 22 inches below the surface. You often can make poorly drained sites or soils suitable for growing blueberries by tiling and/or planting on raised beds.
A raised bed 8 to 18 inches high and 3 to 4 feet wide usually is sufficient to provide adequate drainage and aeration. Remove some of the soil and replace it with about 3 inches of coarse material (gravel, crushed stone, etc.) to provide good drainage.
On top of the coarse material add 8 to 18 inches of a mixture containing a high content of acid peat. For example, you can use a mixture of half sandy soil and half peat or half soil and half sawdust. Use logs or stones to retain the soil mixture if necessary.
Plant healthy 2- to 3-year-old plants in late winter or early spring. Purchase bare-root or container grown plants from a reputable nursery. If you purchase bare-root plants, plant them before they break dormancy (begin growth in spring). Space plants from 4 to 6 feet in the row. Spacing between the rows can be from 7 to 9 feet. Set plants no more than 2 inches deeper than they were growing in the nursery row or container. Firm the soil well to remove air pockets. Avoid fertilizing plants when you plant them. Water thoroughly after planting, but don’t overwater.
Strip off flower buds or blossoms that appear the year the plants are set, so that no crop is produced. Be patient! It’s important that plants grow well the first year, and flower and fruit production hinder growth.
It’s easy to strip off blossoms by wearing leather gloves and rubbing your hands up and down the twigs.
Eliminate all perennial weeds before planting and keep the planting free of all weeds during the growing season to within at least 4 feet of the plants. Blueberry roots grow mostly near the soil surface. Thus, to prevent root damage, any cultivation you do must be very shallow and not too close to the plant.
Blueberries grow better on mineral soil if you mulch them. After planting, apply mulch to a depth of 3 inches. Increase the depth of the mulch to 6 inches over a period of years. You can mulch the entire soil surface (and then you don’t have to cultivate), or you can place a band of mulch about 3 to 4 feet wide in the row. You may have to apply two to three times as much fertilizer on mulched plantings compared to unmulched plantings.
Mulching with old sawdust or some other well decomposed (rotted), suitable material keeps the soil cool, helps conserve moisture, adds organic matter to the soil, improves soil structure, and aids in weed control.
Four weeks after planting, apply 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of about 1 ounce (11/2 tablespoons) per plant. Sprinkle it evenly within 12 to 18 inches of each plant, but not directly on the crown or stems. If possible, use mixtures in which potassium is supplied in the form of potassium sulfate rather than potassium chloride. Fertilizer is more effective when it’s in contact with the soil. If you mulched the plants, rake it aside, apply fertilizer, then replace the mulch.
Blueberries have a shallow, fibrous root system, so they’re susceptible to drought injury. A uniform and adequate supply of water is essential for optimum growth. If this isn’t supplied by natural soil water or rainfall, then you must irrigate. On the average, plants need 1 inch of water per week. Check the soil frequently for adequate moisture and irrigate if necessary.
At planting, prune all branches back by about 30 to 40 percent to encourage vigorous new growth. Young plants require little pruning for the first 2 to 3 years. Remove dead or dying parts of branches and less vigorous, spindly growth around the base of plants to encourage vigorous upright growth.
Whenever you fertilize, use either ammonium sulfate (21 percent nitrogen) or a well-balanced fertilizer containing potassium sulfate. These fertilizers gradually will lower the pH of the soil. Blueberries grow best if the soil pH (a measure of acidity) is between 4.5 and 5.5.
Checklist for establishing a blueberry planting and taking care of plants the first year Select a good site. Eliminate all perennial weeds before they go to seed. Test the soil pH a year before planting. Prepare the soil the year before planting: Incorporate organic matter. Modify soil pH if necessary. If the site drains poorly, use tile drains and build raised beds.
Choose cultivars-planting two or more leads to larger fruit and a longer harvest period. Plant in the spring. Apply 3 inches of straw or other mulch. Prune all branches back by 30 to 40 percent. Apply fertilizer a month after planting. Keep the planting weed-free. Irrigate as required. Care of established plants
Add mulching material as required to attain a depth of about 6 inches once plants are mature. In row plantings, widen the mulched area to at least 4 feet as plants become larger. As a rule, sawdust mulch decomposes at the rate of about 1 inch per year.
Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer annually in the spring at the rate of 2 ounces (1/4 cup, or equivalent rate of another well-balanced fertilizer) per plant the second year after planting, increasing by 1 ounce each year until you reach a total of 6 to 8 ounces (3/4 to 1 cup) per plant. If the soil is quite fertile, an application of 5 ounces of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) per mature plant is sufficient.
Apply this fertilizer at the time the buds are swelling. Spread it evenly around the plant, over an area approximately equal to that of the maximum spread of the bush, without touching the base of the canes.
The first 2 or 3 years after you start mulching, plants may become pale green, because much of the soil nitrogen is used by organisms that decompose the mulch. Therefore, it’s often necessary to fertilize each plant with 1 to 2 ounces of ammonium sulfate in early May and again in late June to avoid nitrogen deficiency. In general, you should avoid fertilizing after July
Check the soil pH every year or two, especially if growth is poor. If the pH is above 6, you can apply sulfur to the surface of the soil or mulch at the rate of about 1 ounce of elemental sulfur or 6 ounces of aluminum sulfate per plant. Water or lightly rake the sulfur into the soil or mulch. (It’s best to delay this sulfur application for about a month after applying fertilizer, to avoid possible burning of blueberry roots.)
Ammonium sulfate fertilizers used over a period of years gradually will lower the pH. However, if you use nitrate fertilizers, you tend to raise the pH.
Remember that your visual assessment of plant growth and fruiting is extremely useful in a good fertilizer program. If the plants are growing well (10 to 12 inches of new growth each year) and if you obtain average yields, there’s no need to worry about whether plants are getting an adequate amount of nutrients.
Blueberries need a uniform and adequate water supply from blossom time to the end of harvest. The demand for moisture is greatest from berry swell through harvest. Fruit bud formation for next year’s crop begins from late July to early August–so adequate water is needed at this time.
Irrigate if plants don’t receive about 1 inch of water a week from rainfall. Irrigate frequently enough to prevent the leaves from wilting. However, avoid overwatering the plants, or roots may be killed.
After the third year, you need to prune blueberry plants regularly. The main objectives of pruning are to promote the growth of strong, new wood and to maintain good fruit production. Fruit is produced on 1-year-old wood.
If you prune too little, plants become crowded, with weak, twiggy growth; and they fail to develop strong new wood for future production. Severe pruning produces fewer, larger berries and more new wood. Experience is the best guide on how hard to prune.
The best time to prune is January to mid-March, when plants are dormant. If you follow a series of steps, you may systemize your pruning job and make it easier:
Cut out any wood that’s dead, damaged, or diseased. Keep the bush fairly open. Remove basal shoots smaller than pencil size in diameter, but leave larger shoots to develop into next year’s fruiting wood. Cut out one or two old, unproductive canes (large stems arising near the base of the plant). Fourth-year or older wood (with small, weak laterals and few fruit buds) is unproductive-cut these canes back to the ground or to a strong new side shoot.
Limit the number of canes to one for each year of age of the plant, or a maximum of 6 to 8 canes for old bushes. If you remove one or two old canes each year and if one or two new ones are produced, none will be over 4 to 6 years old-a good goal towards which to work.
Remove excess sucker shoots (growing from base of plant or roots) and weak, twiggy wood, especially from the top of the plant, to allow light to reach the center. Twiggy wood generally has few fruit buds.
Plants may overbear. This often results in very little new growth of wood, and small, late-maturing berries. If this is a problem, remove some of the weakest 1-year-old wood and, if necessary, tip back some of the remaining 1-year-old wood. Cut off about one-third of the flower buds; these are larger, fatter, and less pointed than vegetative buds.
If you prune bushes correctly, you’ll have a good balance between fruit production and growth of vigorous new shoots.
Checklist for taking care of mature plants Add mulch to a depth of 6 inches. Apply fertilizer in the spring when the buds start to swell. Maintain a uniform and adequate moisture supply by irrigation if necessary. Pick fruit at optimum maturity. Prune from January through mid-March. Harvesting
Each blueberry cultivar ripens berries over a 2- to 5-week period. Berries occur in clusters of 5 to 10. Don’t be too anxious to pick the berries when they first appear ripe. They’ll develop better flavor if you leave them for a few days after they completely turn blue. Pick about once a week or more often in hot weather. Gently roll berries between your thumb and forefinger, removing fully ripe berries and leaving unripe berries for the next picking.
You can collect berries in an open container attached to a belt or cord at waist level. This frees both hands for picking. You can keep fruit for a week or more in the refrigerator.
Many species of birds feed on blueberry fruit; they can harvest 100 percent of the berries if you don’t control them. Scare tactics like aluminum plates and strips of foil flapping in the wind have limited effectiveness; birds become used to these devices.
The most effective method of bird control is netting with a light plastic fabric. You can place nets directly on the plants, but this makes harvesting fruit difficult, and birds still can feed on some of the outside fruit by pecking through the netting. As an alternative, you can construct a small wooden frame over individual or groups of plants as a support for the netting.
If any diseases or insect pests become a problem-such as mummy berry, Botrytis, Pseudomonas, aphids, root weevils, or scales-check with your county office of the OSU Extension Service for control recommendations.
Blueberry Plants are Easy to Grow and Produce Delicious Blueberries for Your Home Garden!
BLUEBERRIES ARE EASY TO GROW!
Plant blueberry bushes this year and enjoy not only the healthy delicious berries, but savor the beauty of these highly ornamental landscape shrubs.For years we have sold proven cold-hardy blueberry varieties that are prolific producers of tasty sweet berries at our farm in Eastern Oregon.
We are now offering these same varieties available online. All our blueberries are certified to be virus free and true to type.When planting blueberries, not only are you planting a bush that will bear delicious and healthy fruit, you are also planting an attractive ornamental shrub. Whether you plant blueberries for the birds, your children, or yourself, blueberries can work very well in your landscape plans.
Blueberries have delicate bell shaped blooms in spring, followed by glossy green leaves throughout summer, delicious powder blue to dark blue fruit, striking fall color ranging from deep orange to scarlet-red, and brilliant winter wood.Blueberries, such as Bluecrop blueberry and Rubel blueberry make excellent hedges. To form solid hedges or screens, place plants 2½ to 3’ apart. To obtain uniform shape and texture use the same variety for the entire hedgeFor border plantings along walks or skirting a planting bed, choose Northcountry. Northcountry blueberry bushes will eventually reach 3’ wide and stays compact at only 2’ high. Since blueberries are acid loving plants, mix in with where rhododendrons or compact evergreen azaleas are planted.
If the soil type in your area is not suitable for blueberries or your growing space is limited to a deck or patio, container growing is an option. The half-high varieties, especially Northcountry, lend themselves to this use. Northcountry will fill out a container such as a half whiskey barrel when mature.Blueberries are noted for their striking fall foliage. Red hues from burgundy to flame, as well as bright yellow oranges, can add rich color to the fall landscape.Although the reason most people buy blueberry plants is not the winter wood color, it is certainly worth noting. The bare branches of blueberry plants have brilliant wood color that is beautiful throughout the winter months and a striking contrast to a snowy background.
Need advice or tips on growing blueberries? Contact your local County Extension agent. publications/extension.PDF Normally the county agent is listed in the white pages of your phone directory under State or County. Ask for an extension horticulturalist. (Sorry, USHBC is involved in promotions and not well suited to give horticulture or plant gardening advice!) We offer this page as a service to home gardeners. Thank you!
Home Gardening:Everyone loves blueberries! We have been asked many times how you can grow your own blueberries to enjoy this sweet treat during the summer months! Your best resource for horticultural information in your area is the Cooperative Extension Service or County Agent. You can also look in your local Yellow Pages and locate nurseries near you who are knowledgeable of blueberries. We wish you luck and hope this whets your appetite to head for the produce and frozen foods section during the months of the year your blueberries are not in season.
|Sunlight – Fruit need plenty of sunlight, whenever it begins to branch or bramble.|
|Soil – Almost all fruits do best in slightly acidic soil, somewhere between a pH of 5.5 and 6.5. Blueberries prefer a soil of even greater acidity of between 4.09 and 5.0.|
|Drainage – Adequate drainage is important. Find a suitable site, avoiding low lying areas the collect water or are slow to drain in the spring.|
|Pollination – Most fruit trees, including blueberries have both male and female organs on the same flower, but not all are self pollinating. The best bet for blueberries is to have different varieties of blueberries within 100 feet, so bees can travel and cross pollinate. Blueberries cannot be fertilized by their own pollen!|
|Potting Blueberries||Potted||Moist, well drained acidic, may be left in container, repot in spring.||ammonium sulfate||Water heavily first 2 weeks. Must experience cold (36 degrees F or less) for at least 6 weeks annually|
|In the ground blueberries||4-5 feet apart||Rich, well drained||ammonium sulfate|
|Home Garden Sites:|
STARTING RIGHT WITH BLUEBERRIES
Blueberries bring a unique combination of delicious fruit and striking ornamental beauty to the garden and landscape. Blueberries are easy to grow, require little care, and are seldom bothered by pests. If a few basic steps are followed your blueberry plants can thrive and last a lifetime.
Blueberry varieties are distinguished by their climate suitability and ripening season. Be sure to choose varieties suited to your area. You may want to select varieties that ripen at different times or feature large fruit (best for fresh eating and desserts) or small fruit (best for muffins and pancakes). Bushes with brilliant fall color or different growth habits offer the gardener lots of choices to use throughout the landscape. For blueberry lovers, allow at least two plants per family member.
Site Selection and Preparation
Select a sunny location in well drained soil free of weeds and well worked. Locate in an area where irrigation water is available as best results will be obtained by keeping the root zone moist throughout the growing season. Where the soil is poor or marginally drained, raised beds 3-4 feet wide and 8-12″ high work very well for blueberries.
A fail safe way to grow blueberries in almost any soil is to incorporate peat moss into the planting medium. For planting directly in the ground, work up a planting area approximately 2-1/2 feet in diameter and one foot deep. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the soil. Add an equal amount of pre-moistened peat moss and mix well. One 4 cubic foot compressed bale will usually be sufficient for 4-5 plants, for raised beds mix equal volumes peat moss with acid compost or planting mix. Blueberries thrive in acidic soils. Your garden center representative can recommend a soil acidifier if necessary for your area.
Spacing – Blueberries can be planted as close as 2-1/2 feet apart to form solid hedgerows or spaced up to 6 feet apart and grown as individual specimens. If planted in rows, allow 8-10 feet between the rows depending on equipment used for mowing or cultivating.
Planting– For container stock, remove from pot and lightly roughen up the outside surface of the root ball. Set the top soil line of the plant about 1-2 inches higher than the existing ground and firm around root ball. Mound soil up along sides of exposed root mass. Watering well. For bare root plants, spread roots out wide and shallow, cover with 1/2″ of soil. Firm soil around roots and water well.
Mulching – Blueberries do best with a 2-4″ mulch over the roots to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and add organic matter. Bark mulch, acid compost, sawdust, grass clippings, etc. all work well. Repeat every other year.
Pruning – It is important that blueberries get established before allowing them to bear fruit. Thereafter, they should be heavily pruned each year to avoid over fruiting which results in small or poor growth.
Remove all blooms as they appear the first. year. In years thereafter, follow these steps after the leaves have dropped.
- Remove low growth around the base. If it doesn’t grow up, it gets pruned out!
- Remove the dead wood, and non-vigorous twiggy wood. Select for bright colored wood with long (at least 3 inch) laterals. Remove blotchy colored short growth.
- If 1/3 to 1/2 of the wood has not been removed by the above steps, thin out the fruiting laterals and small branches until this balance has been obtained.
Fertilizing – Blueberries like acid fertilizers such as Rhody or Azalea formulations. For newly planted stock, use 2 tablespoons of 10-20-10 (or similar fertilizer) in late spring or once plants are established. (Careful! Blueberries are very sensitive to over fertilization!) For subsequent years, use 1 ounce of fertilizer for each year from planting to a total of 8 ounces per plant. Apply in early spring and again in late spring for best results. Always water well after fertilizing.
For organic fertilizers, blood meal and cottonseed meal work well. Avoid using fresh manure.
_Blueberry Plants (2 per family member)
_Peat Moss (4-5 plants per cubic bale)
_Mulch (1 cu. ft. per plant)
love me some OUTSIDE!
Sun, 2012/03/11 – 11:22am — BuffMother
Hi All!! Sorry I’ve been a bit scarce in here– been BUSY!! I spent Friday in at my old house- we are still “slowly moving” and in the midst of trying to get it ready to lease. I have all my papers there- so I spent the day working on gathering info for taxes. I also took some time to pack up my van with stuff to move– It was a busy day and NO WORKOUT! I finally felt recovered from my trip and my little “head cold/allergies” I’d been suffering with all week. It was cycle day 5 also, so that may be part of why I was feeling more myself too 😉
Yesterday I spent my morning grocery shopping, at softball practice and cleaning. But my afternoon was spent OUTSIDE!!
I hit the dirt road for a mile run finished with 5 sprints. Then I spent the remainder of the day outside!! We planted some flowers, cabbages from the kids’ school program, strawberries and a blue spruce. I also built this fire:
It’s raining today- which is good because I have work to get done on the computer. I’m not sure if I’ll get in a workout today or not, I am REALLY sore from yesterday and I don’t plan on going anywhere today– Just be a homebody!
My cycle day is 7, weight= 129
Plan of Attack- buffing, running centered add in some tennis!!
M-Run and Upper body
T-Legs – busy night for kid’s activities- softball and the BEE competition (a triva bowl event for the upper elementary)
W- run and maybe tennis tennis
Th- upper body and tennis during the twins softball practice??
It’s been great to catch up with you all…now to get my “work” done!! Love ya!!
March “Team BuffMother” News
Mon, 2012/03/12 – 12:14pm — BuffMother
Hi all!! I expect many of you are enjoying “Spring Break” with your kids during this month. I am headed into Spring Break next week…so I thought I’d take some time while I have it to give you some news!!
- Last week we finished up our “21 day Kick the Habit” contest- I have gathered the entries and will be announcing the winners later this week. Each winner will get a FREE Long Sleved “BuffMother!” t-shirt. Perfect workout wear for your “warm up” time at the gym or your chilly morning cardio! If you missed the contest, don’t fret…I’ll be publishing the 21 day program as a FREE downloadable e-book for all of TEAM BuffMother to be available this April.
- We will be having a 10 week Team BuffMother contest staring at the beginning of April. This year I’ll be sharing my private coaching videos with you as we go along through the 10 weeks. It’s a ton of GREAT info and you’ll be continually inspired which will help you stay consistent through the 10 weeks!! The winner will get a Miracle 8 training package with me– a $2000 Value!!
- The updated BuffMother.com website is almost complete!! My team of experts have been working hard toward making it fresh, new and pretty! The next update task will be our Rally Room. Thanks for all your support and promotion of www.BuffMother.com!! Without your commitment I couldn’t afford to keep investing into the site~ You ROCK!!
- Team BuffMother is doing the Warrior Dash in Kansas City on May 5th…EVERYONE Is invited!! Our team wear is based upon LMFAO’s song “sexy and I know it”….I’ll be having tanks printed for all participants–but the rest of our outfit is up to you, some ideas include- wild animal print pants, headbands and gloves– white retro sunglasses, fishnet stockings for under your shorts- a crazy afro wig- some rapper bling, etc…Let’s have fun~ “I WORK OUT!”; “Wiggle, Wiggle, Wiggle, Wiggle, Yeah!”!!!
- I am currently taking on new online training clients. My most popular program is the 6 week Customized training package…details are below. For more info feel free to email me directly at email@example.com
6 week Custom Hormonal Timing Plan
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This is the best way to learn how to live a Hormonal Timing Lifestyle because I’ll design the program specifically for you.
I’ll begin by learning every critical detail about you. Then, I’ll use this information to map out a very specific strategy so you
can hit your personal goals as quickly as possible. I strongly suggest you start out with this 6 week program because I do
all the work to figure out your specific diet as well as your exercise program according to your cycle, present state,
your goals and the equipment you have access to. This means there is no guesswork on your part. Simply follow my
directions as they are laid out specifically for you! It’s the fastest way to learn about Hormonal Timing. If you lack patience,
like I do, you’ll want to get started quickly so you can see results as fast as possible! I promise to custom design a perfect
Hormonal Timing POA made just for you. With me as your coach, failure is not an option!
• We’ll start with an initial client fitness/diet questionnaire to assess you fitness and diet history
• I will then do a complete questionaire and photo analysis to assess your current status and focus on
the specific actions you need to attain you most beautiful physique.
• I will provide you with a 6 week personalized workout plan to fit your hormones,
current fitness level, specific needs (home or gym workouts) and goals.
• I will also provide you with a customized 5-4-3-2-1 Diet™ and meal
plan including supplement recommendations
• I will be available to you via e-mail for initial program questions and will
offer constant support throughout your program via the Rally Room.
• Mental Strategies and tools will be incorporated to help you attain Belief,
keep a positive mental attitude, live with a legacy perspective and keep positive momentum.
Let’s attack it this spring so that we can be Buff and Beautiful in our Bikini’s this summer!!
I am off to get some work done and then my WORK OUT!!
off to play tennis!!
Wed, 2012/03/14 – 2:01pm — BuffMother
A great quote- “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”
Thomas A. Edison
Thu, 2012/03/15 – 11:48am — BuffMother
I’m focused on gaining MOJO this month!! I’ve been getting my workouts in and been doing my best to keep life in perspective. One day at a time; One small VICTORY at a time….consistenlty they will add up and my BuffMojo will be back …
workouts have been as follows:
Monday- run hard and fast for 10 mins on treddy (5mph 1mins, 6mph 2 mins, 7mph 2mins, 8 mph 2 mins, 9 mph 2mins, 10mph 1 min- total of 1.25 mi), lift upper body, hike with kids
Tues- lift legs- left knee pain?? maybe from hike and/or treddy run
Wed- Tennis with Gunner for 1 hour; run hills 6 on my trail; build a fire
Thurs- the plan is an upper body workout with my son
My diet has been decent… not perfect but not bad–I’ve decided to focus on maintaining my cals at a steady level for the remainer of this month– My energy has been really low recently and I need to just focus on fueling my body to be health vs. trying to make the scale move down. I also started taking NO2, Creatine and a desiccated Adrenal supplement this week to see if that’ll help me– It should take a month or so to “feel” the difference. My goal right now is all about gaining fitness and MOJO!!
Time to work for a bit before my workout date at 3pm.
Spring Break = Spring Cleaning
Mon, 2012/03/19 – 2:59pm — BuffMother
It’s “Spring Break” week here in the Berger house…the kids have been loving the freedom already & I’ve been loving the focus on Spring Cleaning!!
Friday, Saturday and Sunday I spent outside. Working on cleaning up some old rail road tie garden boxes, burning dead trees and prepping my new garden area. I was feeling the extra activity big time yesterday–so it was a bit more restful of a day–then for supper we decided to have STEAK! YUMMY RIBEYEs for the whole family…I woke up with a renewed energy today.
All day today we’ve been waiting for the storms to hit! They are going to bring massive rain…
My workout for today will be legs– Gunner and I are headed there now.
I’ll be back to read/comment on all your energetic posts~ Love ya!!
Seasons…SPRING is here!!!
Wed, 2012/03/21 – 9:33am — BuffMother
It’s interesting how life progresses….It’s always a battle to stay balanced through each “SEASON”. Weather seasons last just 3 months but life seasons last odd amounts of time and seem to change without warning–I’m not sure I like that? My life seasons seem to last anywhere from 1 to 3 years–and most certainly contain some “Indian summers” within each one, lol!!
Most recently in 2011 I went through a season of Transition– (spring)
Prior to that in 2009-2010 I went through a season of change, rest and challenge–(fall/winter).
Previous to that in 2005-2008 I went through an excited, dream filled, productive, growth, season… (summer)
And previous to that, well….I can’t remember! I was in the throws of FULL-ON MOTHERHOOD, lol!! 2001-2004 were my crazy busy momma years! (fall/winter)
Looking forward…It only makes sense that it’s time to revisit the “Excited Dream Filled Productive Growing Season”, another SUMMER of my life!! …BUT FIRST I must go through a SPRING….
Spring time is about Planting, prepping, preparing, fertilizing, pollinating, WORKING! It’s about laying the foundation for a productive GROWTH season– It’s about putting in the work needed to make harvest time plentiful!
What to do I need to do in EACH area of my personhoood to have the best spring possible??
Mind– DREAM about each seed planted…PLAN for the outcome I desire…PREPARE with a mindset that will allow no other outcome than success…Stay positive throughout any challenges that could through my harvest plans off target…Take a flexible, yet diligent mindset to every task at hand.
Body– work it, feed it, rest it properly so that each day will be productive…Once harvest time comes I want to have the physical energy to enjoy it! I am living for the long haul…I won’t overtax my system and over burden myself– I will slow down the pace enough to smell the flowers! Each day will be a physical triumph– my body was made for the labor in front of me this SPRING and each season to come!!
Spirit– I will press into the deep reason behind my existence– what is my purpose? What is the ULTIMATE GOAL of my labors? I am meant to love and show love to others. Every thought in my mind and each physical act should reflect the love I have been given by GOD for others. I can’t control if others accept that love, but I can live through that SPIRIT!
A HUGE part of my season right now is teaching my children. My 12 year old son and my 10 & 9 year old daughters need my guidance, instruction and TIME! When they were younger I was FORCED to give them time…now it’s more MY CHOICE. I need to be ON PURPOSE about investing in them…I need to be self sacrificing and self less enough to realize this “SEASON” is a SPRING TIME in their life. What they learn NOW will reap a harvest later in my children’s life– it want it to be a GOOD harvest!
Teaching them about responsibility, pressing into their talents, working hard, finishing jobs, being a good friend, about their bodies, about the world, etc…It’s my job, not the TV’s or their friends or their school teacher’s….The JOB is mine! Time to PLANT within them the seeds of Success!!
MY life is not only about my kids, nor do I think It’d be healthy if it was just about them. I look at my life in quadrants– Like a pie– 1/4 of it is about partner in life to my husband! EVERY portion of the PIE is owned by my GOD…He’s the ruler over each piece. I have 100% confident that HE is good and will guide me the wisdom I need for each area of my life.
The tricky part of each season is to practice that wisdom and show to stay properly balanced in each area of life without staying “static” or just maintaining. The goal is to continually GROW weather it be Spring, Summer, Fall or even Winter! I’m thankful that I am in a “Spring” of my life…it’ll make it that much easier to grow, enjoy, dream and produce!! I love it…SPRING IS HERE!!
Have you thought about what “season” of life you are in? Rest assured that what you do today will affect the length and outcome of not only this season, but those to come. I pray that no matter where you are at, you will press into being your best!! Keep BELIEVING that you can attain your DREAMS!!
Rain, Rain- GO AWAY!
Fri, 2012/03/23 – 7:51am — BuffMother
Holy Smokes! it’s still rainy here this morning…That’s 5 days in a row now. Poor kids, their spring break has been more like a winter break 🙁 We’ve been working hard to do something “special” each day despite the weather. We went to the Lorax/Mall a couple days ago, watched the Muppets movie off Direct TV on Wednesday and Yesterday we went to the new ART Museum- Crystal Bridges. It was BUSY and interesting. I’m a amazed at the fact some items are even there– lol! Art is vey subjective.
My workouts have been a bit lax this week…it’s tough to leave the kiddos and I’m kinda taking a mental/physical break from routine. I did get in a good leg workout on Monday, a good run on Wednesday and today I’ll get in another run with some uppper body lifting. Every other day keeps me rollin’ enough so that when I hit it harder again next week, I won’t feel insanely behind.
Today I have a bunch of “work” to get done– I’ve prepared the kids all week telling them– On Friday, I HAVE TO WORK, lol!! We’ll see how much focus they’ll let me have.
Have a Fun Fab and FIT Friday!!
Sweet Sunshiny weekend!!
Sun, 2012/03/25 – 4:33pm — BuffMother
HI my Sunshines!!
The weekend has been SUNNY!! and I have been outside enjoying it today. Travis had to travel for work and I picked him up LATE on Friday night from the airport. Yeasterday we were both too TIRED to get much of anything done outide…so we went shopping at a stor called ATWOODS. We bought all sorts of stuff for our FARM…and I got a new pretty pink shirt.
Anyhow, we’ve been working on a fun project today- I dug out an area for another pond! It’s adjacent to our current spring fed pond that was “leaking”. Now that it has a new area for it’s outlet the leaking problem should stop and our pond area will be ready to make beautiful.
I’ll share pictures of my new shirt and the project soon.
See you TOMORROW!!
Tue, 2012/03/27 – 11:07am — BuffMother
The Warrior Dash is less than 6 weeks away and I’m Running SCARED!! Scared of the race KILLING me! Literally I am SCARED of failing, feeling horrible in the race and dying of physical exhaustion, lol!!
I’ve been striving to get in my runs lately and feel like I am improving on them each time. At this point I’ve been consistently hitting it 3x’s a week. Last night I ran 6 hills despite being so tempted to skip it all together…I am very happy that I did it, but my body is EXHAUSTED from them and the upper body lifting workout I did before it yesterday afternoon.
The weather has been so amazing since Saturday– it’s so energizing!! the kids have been out exploring on our land– playing in the creek a bunch– catching all sorts of tad poles, crawfish and butterflies. Here’s TIA with a really beautiful butterfly on her arm– simply amazing!!!
Anyhow- today I am in Bentonville at our old house–working on a BIG “to do” list that needs to be done so we can get finished with this move/leasing process. I certainly hope that by mid April we’ll have it DONE!!
Gotta go for now~ I’ll check back in with you tonight after my workout! Legs are on tap– if you want some inspiration for a leg workout, check out this old blog post of mine– http://blog.buffmother.com/206
Have a productive day!!
Thu, 2012/03/29 – 12:15pm — BuffMother
My wednesday was spent on the MOVE– working hard on mowing, fertilizing, weeding, moving, cleaning, sorting, and then RUNNING!! I am very proud of myself for getting in my second run of the week.
Today I was down to 128.6…the first time I’ve seen 128 in a few weeks, YAY!! Staying active works and running works! Now if I can keep losing a pound a week for April, I’ll be very happy to have my weight come in at about 125 for the WArrior DASH! It’s so much easier to run a bit lighter!!
Tuesday- I didn’t get a leg workout in, instead Gunner and I played tennis. So Legs are on tap for today!
I have to go unload my van, get some boxes unpacked and eat lunch so I’m fueld for my workout at 3!
Keep working hard!!
p.s. my plan is for us to start a 10 week contest on th 9th or 16th…I’m just waiting for my new website to be finished prior to starting.
OH my goodness…I forgot!!
Fri, 2012/03/30 – 1:23pm — BuffMother
I just realized I forgot about anouncing the 21 day Kick the Habit winners…I’ll add that to my Monday’s to do list now. Sorry!!
Anyhow, the good news is my mojo is on the rise…how do I know that you ask?? Well….I am willing to make “to do” lists for myself. When I have good motivation I am all about following and making “to do lists” conversly, when mojo is LOW– I won’t even make a list because I don’t want to have to do it, lol!!
Today has been a busy, weird day- Lots going on with the kids, work and in my brain! “It’s just my hormones!! LOL!!”
Got in a good leg workout yesterday:
Smith Squats and lunges
Decline abs sit ups with twist- 2 sets
Knee ups- front and sides- 4 sets
Bulgarians, side lunges and booty clenches betweens some sets- 1 set of each
Lower back/booty extensions 2 sets
Then I worked on weeding my tree garden- I have several good yearling tress that I have to keep fenced in to protect them from the deer. The Grass was growing so tall around it you couldn’t see the trees! That’s cleaned up now~ and I also watered my garden.
Today, I need to plant the rest of my garden- bought some tomoto plants, more strawberry plants and have some more seeds to plant. — that reminds me, I need to take more pictures and post the ones I’ve taken! More items to add to my to do list!!
A Relentless weekend is in store for me!! a Run and upper body lifting today, a Saturday of Softball, Gardening and FIRES– then a Sunday HILL run!! “RELENTLESS!!!” http://blog.buffmother.com/788/i-love-the-word-relentless
I’ll get through the lifting quickly, then head out for the run outside…it’s a BEAUTIFUL DAY!!
Gotta go eat my preworkout meal– I think it’ll be a salad!! Thinking about my garden has got me hungry for greens!!
See ya tomorrow!!